Item Code: 32005

* The perfect solution for someone who only has 1 socket, and wants both types of light in their tank.
* 10,000K color is high intensity "ice white" light.
* Actinic 03 is real actinic with light emitting peak at 420nm.
* Panasonic style “Square Pin” socket (GY10Q).
* 22" overall length, 23 1/2" with moisture resistant endcap.
* Works in any standard 55W OR 65W fixture of the same pin configuration.
* Note: Some bulbs are stamped "55W", but they will work fine in 65W fixtures. It's the ballasts that drive the bulbs.

*** FAQ:
Q. Are these bulbs 55W or 65W?
A. (Note: This applies to both Compact Fluorescent and Fluorescent bulbs only.) Actual wattage to the lamp is primarily a factor of the lamp electrical characteristics and the ballast driving the lamp. Without getting too technical, the wattage marking on the lamp does not necessarily determine the actual wattage to the lamp. (i.e. you could have 100W to a lamp that is marked 55W!!) Fixtures with different ballast will have different wattage to the lamp and as such the wattage marking on the lamp is for reference only.
Actual wattage to the lamp operated by electronic ballast can only be measured using special high frequency wattage measuring equipment. Input wattage to the ballast is not a direct indication of wattage to the lamp.
Simply put, 55W and 65W lamps have same or similar electrical characteristics and therefore if one replaces either lamp into a given fixture (either a 55W or 65W system) then the wattage to the lamps will be driven by the ballast(s) of such system. Wattage to the lamp determines lumen output or total light output of the lamp.
Conclusion: Lamps marked 55W or 65W can be interchanged with similar or equivalent light output performance. The ballast drives the bulb.
Q. What's the difference between CF 50/50 and standard fluorescent 50/50 bulbs?
A. Well, by design, the CF 50/50 has a tremendous advantage over standard fluorescent bulbs. The CF design allows for 2 individual tubes to be coated with their own phosphors. This means you can have true actinic phosphors coating one tube, and 10,000K phosphors coating the other. It's better (in our opinion) to have the daylight and actinic phosphors separate, rather than mixing them together. Standard fluorescent 50/50 tubes mix the phosphor powders together, and then coat.
General Compact Fluorescent Questions:
Q. I don't see a particular color temp (K) or base style (Square / Straight pin) that I am looking for. Can you get it?
A. We stock the most popular color temps and bases available. We also can have a new style bulb made, if demand warrants. Let us know what you're looking for. If we get enough requests, we'll try and source it, or have it made.
Q. My CF bulbs keep breaking, why is that?
A. We'd suspect that your lamp clips are too tight. Stretch them out lightly. The most common breaks we hear about are on the ends of the 2 tubes, where they are connected. This is a fragile area, and it can crack if you are not careful.
Q. What is better, Square Pin or Straight Pin??
A. This is a matter or opinion. But, Square pin is the more popular of the two. Square pin is also a little longer and wider than straight pin, so theoretically, you'd get more surface area that's lighting your tank.
To avoid problems with CF bulbs & ballasts, we recommend:
1) Mount electronic ballasts as far away from heat sources as possible (this would include bulbs as a heat source).
2) Do not mount ballasts in any high humidity areas (ie. above sump, etc).
3) Avoid unnecessarily removing Compact Fluorescent bulbs once they are in place. Glass bulbs are fragile, so take care when handling them.
4) Make sure they are pushed all the way into their sockets.
5) Mount behind glass or acrylic 3-6" above the water. Do NOT operate any bulb directly over exposed water!
6) Securely mount all endcap cords, as loose cords can be pulled on accidentally, resulting in bulb breakage.
7) Most photo periods are between 8-12 hours, depending on specimen needs.